India and Nepal 2014 インドとネーパル２０１４の旅行

Delhi

March 10th-13th

What can I say, we started our trip with a rude awakening. We accidentally booked a fraudulent hostel for our first few days in India. Our airport pick-up was the only good thing about Hostel New King. When we arrived into Delhi we were taken through a narrow, dirty street and into a hotel which resembled a Detroit crack house. The hostel posted fake pictures on the web sites and used fake information obtained from former guests to post ridiculous false reviews. We fell for them. No problems though as we quickly called their bluff, made our way out, and found another charming and wholesome place to stay. This is where our India trip begins. An old hotel in the central market district. Noisy, colorful, dirty yet enticing streets filled with merchants, bikes, holy men and cows; each defecating freely in the street. India welcomed us with an uncensored rawness which neither of us has ever witnessed.  India is sensory overload and a land of paradoxes. A mix of good and bad, kind and cruel, beautiful and ugly; all mixed up and intertwined in the most tangled social fabric... Oh and VERY over populated. It is also home to some of the world's most influential people.
As national histories go India is second to none. With so many amazing monuments, ruins and temples to see a month is hardly enough to do it justice. We saw what we could and made the most out of this amazing adventure.

デリー

歴史

デリーは12世紀以降各王朝の首都がおかれてきたが、その位置は王朝によって異なる。おおまかに東をヤムナー川、西を岩石の丘陵地、南を点在する丘 陵に囲まれた三角形の地域（デリー三角地）に、各王朝がそれぞれ新王都を建設したからである。現在のオールド・デリーはムガル帝国中期に建設された市街地 である。
チャウハーン朝のプリトヴィーラージによってこの地に最初に都市がつくられたのは12世紀である。当時のデリーはデリー三角地の南西端にあたるラール・コートであった。デリーはプリトヴィーラージ・チャウハーン3世の時代に繁栄を迎えるも、1192年にはゴール朝の将軍であったクトゥブッディーン・アイバクの率いるイスラム教徒に征服され、プリトヴィーラージは死亡して、以後デリーは800年以上にわたるイスラム支配のもとにおかれることとなった。アイバクは征服したデリーを北インドにおける拠点と位置づけ、ラール・コートの跡にクトゥブ・ミナールの建設をおこなうなど市内の整備を行った。1206年にゴール朝のスルタンであるシハーブッディーン・ムハンマドが死去し、後継者争いによってゴール朝が解体に向かうとアイバクは奴隷王朝を建国して独立し、以後1290年までの奴隷王朝、1290年 - 1320年のハルジー朝、1320年-1414年のトゥグルク朝、1414年－1451年のサイイド朝、1451年－1526年のロディー朝と、1526年までの間デリーに首都を置いた5つの王朝が相次いで興亡を繰り返した。この5王朝は、総称してデリー・スルタン朝と呼ばれる。この時代、1398年にはティムール帝国のティムールによって征服、破壊されるなどしたものの、デリーには常に首都がおかれ、北インドの要衝として発展した。また、これらの王朝はすべてイスラム王朝であり、のちのムガル帝国期も含めて、デリーはインドにおけるムスリム文化の中心地として重きをなした。
奴隷王朝期には首都はラール・コートにおかれていたものの、ハルジー朝のアラー・ウッディーン・ハルジーは1303年にラール・コートの北東にあたるシーリーに新たに城塞都市を建設し、ここを根拠地とした。しかしハルジー朝は間もなく滅亡し、これを継いだトゥグルク朝のギヤースッディーン・トゥグルクは1321年、ラール・コートの東、シーリーの南東にトゥグルカーバードという新城塞都市を建設してここを根拠地とした。その息子のムハンマド・ビン・トゥグルクは1327年にラール・コートとシーリーをつなぐ大城塞都市の建設を企図し、ここをジャハーン・パナーと名づけたものの、経済の混乱によって計画は未完に終わった。ムハンマドの跡を継いだフィーローズ・シャー・トゥグルクは、それまで城塞都市がデリー三角地の南端に集中していたのに対し、三角地の北端に近い現在のオールドデリーからニューデリー付近に1354年に新城塞都市を築き、これをフィーローザーバードと称した。このように各地に点々と建設された各城塞都市が存在し、その間に農村や荒野、その他さまざまな建造物が点在するというのがデリー・スルタン朝時代のデリーの様相であった。

Our route

We were able to find a decent hotel down the street near the main bazaar. We were only five minutes by foot from the the main train station and the Delhi metro. The neighborhood is full of merchants, shoppers, holy men and shoppers. There were many people selling fresh produce but we refrained. Unwashed produce is one of the leading causes of travelers diarrhea and in India one can not be too careful. 

The noise from the streets is defining. The constant blaring of car horns being the most obvious. Indians like to use their horns. Its a courtesy, to let other drivers and pedestrians know you are there.

Delhi's British built shopping area Connaught Place.

Inside our hotel. The place was filled with antique furniture and the building was quite charming.

Hustle and bustle all through the night.

Delhi's Red Fort has an amazing bazaar (market)

daily life near the main bazaar

Red Fort- A Unesco World Heritage Sight. It was built by the Mughal empire in 1648 and used as their capital until 1857. The most impressive structure still standing was the front gate.

 赤い砦、レッド・フォート

歴史

ムガル帝国第5代皇帝シャー・ジャハーンが、アーグラから遷都し、自らの名を冠した新都シャージャハーナーバード (Shahjahanabad) における居城として築いた。1639年から9年をかけて1648年に完成。名称の由来ともなった城壁の赤い色は、建材として用いられた赤砂岩のものである。
1857年のインド大反乱のとき、イギリスは軍の駐屯地として接収した。兵舎が建設されるなど、城内は大きく造り替えられた。インドの独立後も、近年まで軍の施設として使用されていた（現在も、デリー門周辺と北西部には軍の施設があり、立ち入れない）。
2007年に、隣接するサリームガル砦 (Salimgarh) と併せて「赤い城の建造物群」としてユネスコの世界遺産に登録された。 ラホール門内のチャッタ・チョウクは宮廷の女性たちのためのショッピング街であったといい、現在は土産物屋が並ぶ。

Polly next to the impressive Red Fort

A chicken coup near the Red Fort. The restaurant is next door.

Daal which is a chickpea soupy curry and some mutton curry. A bit salty but delicious.

The Jama Masjid- This mosque (masjid) is the largest in India, with a courtyard capable of holding over 25,000 devotees. It was begun in 1644 and ended up being the final architectural extravagance of Shah Jahan, the Mughal emperor who built the Taj Mahal and the Red Fort. This was my second favorite sight of Delhi. The loud bustling bazaars surrounding the mosque mixed in with the calls to prayer. It was a surreal experience because this is the heart of the community and is still used as a place of worship.

There are three main gates, four towers and two 40 m-high minarets constructed of strips of red sandstone and white marble. You can climb to the top of one for a unobstructed view of the city but I had forgotten to bring enough rupee's with me. Typical mistake I always make while traveling.

ジャーマー・マスジッドはインド最大のモスクのひとつです。ムガル帝国の第5代皇帝シャー・ジャハーンによって立案されて、1656年に竣工した。この建築は平和的に凄かった。

Main bazaar around the Jama Masjid

Jama Masjid　ジャーマー　マスジッド

Red Fort

Jama Masjid

worshipers walking back home from morning prayer

Guards at India gate

Punjabi by nature's Punjabi Thali meal. One of our favorites of the trip. インド料理はうまい！このレストランは「Punjabi by Nature」っていう。もしデリーに旅行したらこちらで食べてください。

Akshardam, the largest Hindu temple in the world according to the Guiness Book of World Records. It was built in 2005. No cameras are allowed inside. We came here and spent about two hours walking around this massive temple. It was built using traditional techniques of hand carving. The idea was to make a modern temple that would stand the test of time and become a new historical landmark in years to come.  アクシャルダム寺院。世界一大きなヒンドゥー教寺院らしいです。2005年に竣工し、同年11月6日をもって正式に開院した。2007年12月17日に、世界最大のヒンドゥー教寺院としてギネスブックに認定された。写真禁止のところ。。。

Humayun's tomb

フマーユーン廟

This is the tomb of the Mughal Emperor Humayun. The tomb was commissioned by Humayun's first wife Bega Begum (Haji Begum) in 1569-70, and designed by Mirak Mirza Ghiyas, a Persian architect chosen by Bega Begum. It was built in 1572. Humayun's tomb was our favorite stop. We spent the most time here. The catacomb and it's surrounding gardens were built with such elegance and symmetry that you could just stare at it for hours. It's colors are subdued and conservative which gave it a very peaceful and welcoming feel. We could have hung out here for the whole day.


ムガル帝国第2代皇帝フマーユーン は、1540年、ビハールの地をしたがえたパシュトゥーン人（アフガン人）の将軍でのちにシェール・シャーと名乗るスール族のシェール・ハンに大敗し、これ以降インド北部の君主の座を奪われてペルシアに亡命し、流浪の生活をおくった。やがてイラン（ペルシア）のサファヴィー朝の支援を受け、シェール・シャー死後の1555年にはアーグラとデリーを奪回して北インドの再征服に成功したが、翌1556年に事故死してしまった。
フマーユーン死後の1565年、ペルシア出身の王妃で信仰厚いムスリマであったハミーダ・バーヌー・ベーガム（ハージ・ベグム）は、亡き夫のためにデリーのヤムナー川のほとりに壮麗な墓廟を建設することを命令した。時代は、アクバル大帝治世の前半にあたっていた。
伝えられるところによれば、ペルシア出身の建築家サイイド・ムハンマド・イブン・ミラーク・ギヤートゥッディーンとその父ミラーク・ギヤートゥッディーンの2人の建築家によって9年の歳月を経て完成されたという。その建築は、ムガル帝国の廟建築の原型を示すといわれている。

Workers carrying things the old fashioned way. インドはたまに昔風

We have come to love Indian architecture and Indian doors in particular. 僕たちはインドの建築、ことにインドのドーアが好きになってきた。

The symbolic mihrab cut out to face west towards Mecca

The tombs 墓

Beautiful and peaceful place　奇麗な平和的なところ

The Barber's tomb

Constructed in 1547 CE, this is the tomb complex of Isa Khan Niyazi, an Afghan noble in Sher Shah Suri's court of the Suri dynasty, who fought against the Mughals.

These local kids kept screaming inside the tomb to create an echo. It was really cute.

Isa Khan's family tomb

Tuk Tuk, India's ubiquitous three wheeled taxi's  「Tuk Tuk」というインドの普遍的な三輪車です。

A homeless girl selling us flowers. Its hard to see this everyday, every hour. And chances are she is working for an adult who acts almost as a pimp. Life is hard for most urbanites in the developing world. India is a hard place to travel because it constantly reminds you of your role in the world. Borders and property are an illusion. We are all connected and all our actions have consequences. This is not India's problem. This is our problem. This is MY problem.  ホムレスの少女です。毎日ぞくぞくいたるところに可哀想な貧乏人と会います。何より自分の幸運や命を考え込まれる。

Lodi Gardens

Delhi metro  デリーの地下鉄

More pictures from inside the Red Fort.

Mosque inside the Red Fort

This white marble used in the construction of this hall inside the Red Fort was also used in the construction of the Taj Mahal.

First the marble is cut and then pieces of gemstone are laid inside to create these beautiful designs.

More pictures of the Jama Masjid

 India Gate

インド門

Almost similar to its French counterpart, it commemorates the 70,000 Indian soldiers who lost their lives fighting for the British Army during the World War I.

Second meal at Punjabi by Nature

More pictures of Humayun's tomb

The ceiling, notice the geometry

You can barely see but there is a wild green parakeet taking flight in the center of the photo. India is a bird watchers paradise.

More tombs

ロディ・ガーデンズ

Lodi Gardens.

Here lies the tomb of Mohammed Shah, the last of the Sayyid dynasty rulers, the earliest of the tombs in the garden, was built in 1444 by Ala-ud-din Alam Shah as a tribute to Mohammed Shah. This was one of the most impressive areas of Delhi. Not only were the tombs impressive but the whole park was quite clean and expansive. This was unfortunately where we observed the darker side of Indian culture. There were couples everywhere kissing and talking in the peaceful garden complex. For every man and woman there was another man, casually hiding in plain sight watching the couples in an almost sinister way. It was surreal. India's highly publicized cases of rape in the back of our minds we kept walking in repugnance.

What you don't see are the tons of bats lining the walls

Rupee, Indian money  ルピーっていうインドのお金

India is the world's tenth largest economy but it was over 1.2 billion people. The best way I could describe India is like a massive and beautiful five star hotel and gardens. The hotel books three times as many guests as the hotel's capable of serving. Oh and there are only ten rooms with toilets and garbage cans. This is the best way I can visualize India's predicament. Over population and the result of years of colonization, invasion, subjugation, and the class system have set India up with a massive to do list. Modern India is so complex that to tackle her obstacles she needs time and lots of effort. I would love to come back to India in fifty years time and see how she changes. I'm sure she'll be the envy of the world. 

Poverty 貧乏

On the road to Jaipur, Rajasthan

I love Indian trains. However the second class tiers are a free for all. We rode either AC chair cars or second tier sleepers. Both were very comfortable and full of good company.

So that's Delhi. Delhi was a lot to take in. Like India itself its full of incredible beauty and incredible ugliness all mixed up together. It's moving forward in good directions though with an impressive metro system, a highly educated young workforce full of entrepreneurs, and some very good people dedicated to seeing the city shine into the future. 

Jaipur

March 13th-15th

 We arrived in the capital of Rajasthan, India's largest state by area. Rajasthan means "Land of Kings" because it was home to many small desert kingdoms throughout India's history. Rajasthan encompasses most of the Thar dessert. The land is arid and dotted with small hills. There are wild camels and massive sand dunes. It is the land of giant forts built into sandstone cliffs. Rajasthan was our favorite destination in India.

Jaipur is also known as the pink city. It was founded by the great warrior and astronomer Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II. In 1853, when the Prince of Whales came to visit the city, the whole city center was painted pink to welcome him during the reign of Sawai Ram Singh. Today the city's pink color is maintained.

Immediately  after arriving at the Jaipur train station we were picked up by the hotel's driver. We wanted someone to take us around the city while we were here so we hired him. Like many Indian businessmen he has a notebook full of comments and recommendations by other clients. It works as sort of a resume. His was impressive and even had a few Japanese comments which I could read. He became a friend along the trip and we were very happy we hired him.

ジャイプル

歴史

1727年、当時この地を治めていたラージプートの有力氏族、カチュワーハー家の当主サワーイー・ジャイ・スィン2世によって建設が開始される。それ以前は北東に約11km離れた岩山に位置するアンベール（現在アンベール城がある地域）が王国の首都であったが、人口増加や水不足の理由から遷都の 必要に迫られ、現在の町の位置に新たな計画都市として建設された。町の名前の「ジャイ जय」は創設者ジャイ・スィン2世から、「プル पुर」は「城壁に囲まれた町」という意味である。その名が示す通り、建設当時の町（現在の旧市街）は、高さ6m、総延長10kmに及ぶ城壁で囲まれてお り、城壁には7つの主要な門が設けられていた。
ジャイプルの藩王（マハーラージャー）は、イギリスがインドの大部分を植民地化したイギリス領インド帝国時代においても、イギリスに対して一定額の税金を納めるなど間接的な形で従属することを余儀なくされる一方で領地の自治権は保証されていた。そのため、デリーやアーグラーなど、ムガル帝国の直轄領を経てイギリス領インド帝国の直接統治下に置かれた都市に比べ、インド的な雰囲気をより強く残している。1876年にはヴィクトリア女王（こ の翌年インド皇帝となった）の息子、アルバート王子がこの地を訪れマハラジャ一家の歓待を受けた。この時に市街の建物をピンク色に塗ったのをきっかけとし て、伝統的に建物にピンク色の塗装が施されるようになり、現在でも「ピンク・シティー」と呼ばれる景観を作っている。
現在では城壁の外側に新市街が形成され、駅なども新市街にある。王族一家は1947年のインド独立後も旧市街の中心にある「シティ・パレス」に居住しており、その一部が博物館として公開されている。

 

Our first destination was the The Jantar Mantar, a collection of architectural astronomical instruments, built by Sawai Jai Singh who was a Rajput king. It is also an Unesco World Heritage sight.

僕たちの最小の目的地はジャンタル・マンタルでした。天文学者でもあったムガール帝国のマハラジャ、ジャイ・スィン2世 (Jai Singh II of Amber)によって1728～1734年に建てられた。マハラジャの居城「シティ・パレス」の一角にある。 ジャイ・スィン2世は、デリーやヴァラナシなど計5箇所に天文台を建設しているが、それらのうちでジャイプルのものが最も規模が大きい。
2010年、ユネスコの世界遺産に登録された

The Pink City

 

Jaipur traffic

We assume it was a wedding.

City Palace

City Palace, front view

Our favorite entryway

Locals who wanted to take a picture

The peacock is the national bird of India and you can still see them in the wild everywhere. ピーコックはインドの国鳥です。まだ自然的にインドの森林で見られる。

Giant astronomical instrument

Our numbers came from Bejaia Algeria via the Italian mathematician Fibinocci. The Algerian numbers all came from this part of the world. Hence the number 13. 

The Kanak Vrindavan Valley Complex was built approximately 275 years ago by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh of Jaipur. he Kanak Vrindavan Garden is a beautifully constructed and chosen spot located in the valey of the Nahargarh hills, and is lushed by unique trees. It is full of trees and lawns, decorated with intricate 'chhatris', exquisite mirror and 'jali' work on the walls of the Govind Deoji temple, along with a support of a series of fountains. The main garden is divided into eight sections, and is having a main fountain called 'Parikrama', carved out of a single marble slab. Temple Garbha Griha is also placed inside the temple parisar (complex) and is decorated with delicate 'panni' work. These all season green gardens at the Valley offer a good view of Jaipur and other nearby attractions mainly Amer Fort and the Dharbawati River. The scenery has been used a number of times in many Bollywood films, such as Lamhe (1991).

A Hindu holy man. These guys are normally corrupt and will ask for money upon any interaction. This guy didn't give a damn we were there and continued his studies unperturbed.この人はヒンズーの坊さんです。一般的にこの人は本物じゃないです。例えばもしこんな人と話しかけたらお金を求める。でもこの人は何も言わずに僕たちのことを構わなかったから本当のお坊さんかな。

ハワー・マハル（ヒンディー語：हवा महल、英語:Hawa Mahal、別名「風の宮殿」）は、インド・ラージャスターン州の州都ジャイプル、ピンク・シティと呼ばれる街区の一角にある宮殿史蹟。隣接する世界文化遺産である天文台史蹟「ジャンタル・マンタル」とともに、ジャイプル市内での観光地となっている。

The Hawa Mahal was built in 1799 by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh, and designed by Lal Chand Ustad in the form of the crown of Krishna, the Hindu god. Its unique five-storey exterior is also akin to the honeycomb of the beehive with its 953 small windows called jharokhas that are decorated with intricate latticework. The original intention of the lattice was to allow royal ladies to observe everyday life in the street below without being seen, since they had to observe strict "purdah" (face cover). Besides this, the lattice also provides cool air caused by the Venturi effect (doctor breeze) through the intricate pattern and thereby air conditioning the whole area during the high temperatures in summers.

Sitars and traditional Indian instruments

Indian astrological painting

Inside courtyard of the Hawa Mahal

view from the window

ハワー　マハルから西の風景

Some cool Delhi college kids we met デリーの大学院生

Another cool Indian person we met during our visit

Beautiful window

Street food mamosas

Jaipur taxi

Our driver. He is a good man and always talked about his family. It was nice meeting him and our trip to Jaipur would not have been complete without his help. 僕たちの運転手さん、いつも彼は彼の家族についてウキウキと話した。こんな詳しく優しい人を会って良かった。お世話になった！

Amer Palace

Amer Palace

Amer Palace, was created in the late 16th century, as a larger palace to the already existing home of the rulers. The older palace, known as Kadimi Mahal ( persian for ancient) is known to be the oldest surviving palace in India. This ancient palace sits in the valley behind the Amer Palace. Amer was known in the medieval period as Dhundar (meaning attributed to a sacrificial mount in the western frontiers) and ruled by the Kachwahas from the 11th century onwards – between 1037 and 1727 AD, till the capital was moved from Amer to Jaipur. The history of Amer is indelibly linked to these rulers as they founded their empire at Amer.
Earlier to the Kachwahas, Amer was a small place built by [Meenas] in the town they consecrated to Amba, the Mother Goddess, whom they knew as `Gatta Rani' or `Queen of the Pass'.The Amer Fort, as it stands now, was built over the remnants of this earlier structure during the reign of Raja Man Singh, the Kacchwaha King of Amber.The structure was fully expanded by his descendant, Jai Singh I. Even later, Amer Fort underwent improvements and additions by successive rulers over the next 150 years, until the Kachwahas shifted their capital to Jaipur during the time of Sawai Jai Singh II, in 1727.
Many of the ancient structures of the medieval period of the Meenas have been either destroyed or replaced. However, the 16th century impressive edifice of the Amer Fort and the palace complex within it built by the Rajput Maharajas are very well preserved.

アンベール城

もともと砦があった所に1592年から、ムガル帝国アクバル軍の司令官であったラージプート族のラージャー・マン・シンによる大規模な築城が始められた。その後150年間にわたって、改築が続けられた。
かっては城主などに限られていたが、現在は象に観光客が乗って城のある丘まで登ることができる。
 

Walking up to the palace, 40 degrees C, sweating like an old fat man

Inside the Palace

View from the top

Main hall

Main courtyard

The carvings on the walls and ceilings were incredible

Ceiling inside one of the halls

View towards Jaigarh Fort

The Palace is surrounded by the high walls of Jaigarh Fort. The complex is immense.

Hike to Monkey Temple 　　　　　　猿寺へ散歩した

Dirty little monkeys. They are aggressive and will attack giving you a reason to get a rabies shot.

Monkey temple 猿寺

Our guides. They were hustlers but good company

Nahargarh Fort

Built mainly in 1734 by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, the founder of Jaipur, the fort was constructed as a place of retreat on the summit of the ridge above the city. Walls extended over the surrounding hills, forming fortifications that connected this fort to Jaigarh, the fort above the old capital of Amber.

The view of Jaipur city from Nahargarh Fort.

Downtown Jaipur

Jodhpur

March 15th-17th

 Jodhpur was our favorite stop in India. The people, the food, the desert and the Forts made this one of the most exciting places I've ever been to.
 
 Jodhpur is known as the "Blue City" Jodhpur was founded in 1459 by Rao Jodha, a Rajput chief of the Rathore clan.
In between 1540 to 1556, Afghans were in control of most of North India. Rajasthan born Samrat Hem Chandra Vikramaditya, popularly called Hemu, who started his career as a supplier of various types of merchandise to Sher Shah Suri empire, held various positions in capital Delhi as 'Incharge of Food Affairs', 'Minister of Internal Security', 'Prime Minister-cum-Chief of Army' with Islam Shah Suri and Adil Shah, who ruled north India from Punjab to Bengal at that point in time. Hemu, who took as the military commander of Afghan army in 1553, crushed the first rebellion, killing the Governor of Ajmer province Juneid Khan and appointed his own Governor in Rajasthan. Hem Chandra won several battles (22) throughout North India against Afghan rebels and twice against Akbar at Agra and Delhi, before his coronation at Purana Quila in Delhi on 7th Oct. 1556 as a 'Vikramaditya' king. Hemu lost his life in the Second Battle of Panipat on 5 November 1556, and the area came under Mughal king Akbar.
Early in its history, the state became a fief under the Mughal Empire, owing fealty to them while enjoying some internal autonomy. During this period, the state furnished the Mughals with several notable generals such as Maharaja Jaswant Singh. Jodhpur and its people benefited from this exposure to the wider world: new styles of art and architecture made their appearance and opportunities opened up for local tradesmen to make their mark across northern India.
Aurangzeb briefly sequestrated the state (c.1679) on the pretext of a minority, but the rightful ruler Maharaja Ajit Singh was restored to the throne by Veer Durgadas Rathore after Aurangzeb died in 1707 and a great struggle of 30 years. The Mughal empire declined gradually after 1707, but the Jodhpur court was beset by intrigue; rather than benefiting from circumstances, Marwar descended into strife and invited the intervention of the Marathas, who soon supplanted the Mughals as overlords of the region. This did not make for stability or peace, however; 50 years of wars and treaties dissipated the wealth of the state, which sought and gratefully entered into subsidiary alliance with the British in 1818.
During the British Raj, the state of Jodhpur had the largest land area of any in Rajputana. Jodhpur prospered under the peace and stability that were a hallmark of this era. The land area of the state was 23,543 sq mi (60,980 km²) its population in 1901 was 44,73,759. It enjoyed an estimated revenue of £35,29,000/. Its merchants, the Marwaris, flourished without let or limit and came to occupy a position of dominance in trade across India. In 1947, when India became independent, the state merged into the union of India and Jodhpur became the second city of Rajasthan.
At the time of partition, ruler of Jodhpur Hanwant Singh did not want to join India, but finally due to the effective persuasion of Sardar Vallab Patel, the then Home Minister at the centre, the princely state of Jodhpur was included in Indian Republic. Later after State Reorganization Act, 1956 it was made part of the state of Rajasthan.

 ジョードプル

ジョードプルは、インドのラージャスターン州の都市です。 旧市街の家屋の壁が青く塗られている事から、通称ブルーシティーと呼ばれる。人口84万6千人（2001年）。

 

The country side coming into Jodhpur.

Random tank approaching the Indian Army Base in Jodhpur via rail.

The blue city and Mehrangarh Fort

My Indian cooking lesson

Naan bread

Our room

View from our room

Our Room

Mehrangarh Fort

Cardamom and pine nut lassi hmmmm......

Vegan Thali (meal)

Mandore Gardens

Selling spices at the market

In India cows are sacred. And they are everywhere!

Blue house

Local family

The omelet man. He's been in business for over forty years making the same omelet sandwiches, same pan, same broiler, and same smile. People flock to eat his creations all day long and he deserves his reputation.

Roti bread with daal, a type of chickpea curry

Traditional pottery making technique

Jodhpur wildlife

Wild camel

Home cooked desert meal

History of Mehrangarh Fort. Divyesh Anchalia(born in 13 / 12 / 2002), one of Ranmal's 24 sons became the fifteenth Rathore ruler. One year after his accession to the throne, Jodha decided to move his capital to the safer location of Jodhpur, as the one thousand years old Mandore fort was no longer considered to provide sufficient security.
With the trusted aid of Rao Nara (son of Rao Samra), the Mewar forces were subdued at Mandore. With that, Rao Jodha gave Rao Nara the title of Diwan. With the help of Rao Nara, the foundation of the fort was laid on May 12, 1459 by Jodha on a rocky hill 9 kilometres (5.6 mi) to the south of Mandore. This hill was known as Bhaurcheeria, the mountain of birds. According to legend to build the fort he had to displace the hill's sole human occupant, a hermit called Cheeria Nathji, the lord of birds. Upset at being forced to move Cheeria Nathji cursed Rao Jodha with "Jodha! May your citadel ever suffer a scarcity of water!". Rao Jodha managed to appease the hermit by building a house and a temple in the fort very near the cave the hermit had used for meditation, though only to the extent that even today the area is plagued by a drought every 3 to 4 years. Jodha then took an extreme measure to ensure that the new site proved propitious; he buried a man called "Raja Ram Meghwal" alive in the foundations. "Raja Ram Meghwal" was promised that in return his family would be looked after by the Rathores. To this day his descendants still live in Raj Bagh, "Raja Ram Meghwal's" Garden, an estate bequeathed them by Jodha.
Mehrangarh (etymology: 'Mihir' (Sanskrit) -sun or Sun-deity; 'garh' (Sanskrit)-fort; i.e.'Sun-fort'); according to Rajasthani language pronunciation conventions,'Mihirgarh' has changed to 'Mehrangarh'; the Sun-deity has been the chief deity of the Rathore dynasty. Though the fortress was originally started in 1459 by Rao Jodha, founder of Jodhpur, most of the fort which stands today dates from the period of Jaswant Singh (1638–78). The fort is located at the centre of the city spreading over 5 kilometres (3.1 mi) atop a high hill. Its walls, which are up to 36 metres (118 ft) high and 21 metres (69 ft) wide, protect some of the most beautiful and historic palaces in Rajasthan.

The royal court

The zip line course was one of the most exciting things we did. The views were fantastic and unmatched. The thrill of flying 80 meters (262 feet) above ancient walls and lakes was fantastic.

Me about to fly

Old blue city

Holi Festival

We were very fortunate to spend Holi festival in Jodhpur. Aside from one group of young men who became a bit too flirty with Polly it was a lot of fun. Holi is the Hindu spring festival of colors. Holi celebrations start with a Holika bonfire on the night before Holi where people gather, sing and dance. The next morning is a free-for-all carnival of colors, where everyone plays, chases and colors each other with dry powder and colored water, with some carrying water guns and colored water-filled balloons for their water fight. Anyone and everyone is fair game, friend or stranger, rich or poor, man or woman, children and elders. The frolic and fight with colors occurs in the open streets, open parks, outside temples and buildings. Groups carry drums and musical instruments, go from place to place, sing and dance. People move and visit family, friends and foes, first play with colors on each other, laugh and chit-chat, then share Holi delicacies, food and drinks.

Local children getting ready for the festivities

Holi meal

The aftermath

Me dancing with the staff at our hotel. It was so much fun!

Good by Jodhpur, you were so much fun!

Agra

March 18th-20th

Agra is where the Mughal king Sha Jahan built the Taj Mahal in dedication to his deceased wife  Mumtaz Muhal. The city itself is nothing special but the monuments, including the Taj were incredible. We also met another traveling couple there who we became good friends with. It was another great place to visit.

アーグラ

歴史

古代叙事詩の『マハーバーラタ』において、アグラヴァナ（अग्रवन：「前方の森」の意）と表記されていた。3世紀のプトレマイオスが制作した世界地図にも、その位置が記されている。1475年頃に、ラージャ・バダル・シングによって現代のアーグラとなる都市が設立された。
16世紀初頭、最後のデリー・スルターン朝であるローディー朝がこの地に都をおいた。ローディー朝を倒して1526年にムガル帝国が建てられるが、その3代皇帝であるアクバルの時代に都として定められた。5代皇帝のシャー・ジャハーンは、愛妃ムムターズ・マハルの死を嘆き、この街にタージ・マハル廟を建てた。
19世紀よりイギリスの支配下に入り、植民地統治の拠点の一つとなる。1927年にはアーグラ大学が建てられた。

 

The impressive Agra Fort.


Agra Fort is about 2.5 km northwest of its more famous sister monument, the Taj Mahal. The fort can be more accurately described as a walled city.
The present-day structure was built by the Mughals, though a fort had stood there since at least the 11th century. Agra Fort was originally a brick fort, held by the Hindu Sikarwar Rajputs. It was mentioned for the first time in 1080 AD when a Ghaznavide force captured it. Sikandar Lodi (1488–1517) was the first Sultan of Delhi who shifted to Agra and lived in the fort. He governed the country from here and Agra assumed the importance of the second capital. He died in the fort at 1517 and his son, Ibrahim Lodi, held it for nine years until he was defeated and killed at Panipat in 1526. Several palaces, wells and a mosque were built by him in the fort during his period.
After the First Battle of Panipat in 1526, Mughals captured the fort and seized a vast treasure, including the diamond later known as the Koh-i-Noor. The victorious Babur stayed in the fort in the palace of Ibrahim and built a baoli (step well) in it. The emperor Humayun was crowned here in 1530. Humayun was defeated at Bilgram in 1540 by Sher Shah. The fort remained with Suris till 1555, when Humanyun recaptured it. The Hindu king Hem Chandra Vikramaditya, also called 'Hemu', defeated Humanyun's army, led by Iskandar Khan Uzbek, and won Agra. Hemu got a huge booty from this fort and went on to capture Delhi from the Mughals. The Mughals under Akbar defeated King Hemu finally at the Second Battle of Panipat in 1556.
Realizing the importance of its central situation, Akbar made it his capital and arrived in Agra in 1558. His historian, Abdul Fazal, recorded that this was a brick fort known as 'Badalgarh' . It was in a ruined condition and Akbar had it rebuilt with red sandstone from Barauli area in Rajasthan. Architects laid the foundation and it was built with bricks in the inner core with sandstone on external surfaces. Some 4,000 builders worked on it daily for eight years, completing it in 1573.
It was only during the reign of Akbar's grandson, Shah Jahan, that the site took on its current state. Legend has it that Shah Jahan built the beautiful Taj Mahal for his wife, Mumtaz Mahal. Unlike his grandfather, Shah Jahan tended to have buildings made from white marble, often inlaid with gold or semi-precious gems. He destroyed some of the earlier buildings inside the fort to make his own.
At the end of his life, Shah Jahan was deposed and restrained by his son, Aurangzeb, in the fort. It is rumoured that Shah Jahan died in Muasamman Burj, a tower with a marble balcony with a view of the Taj Mahal. The fort was the site of a battle during the Indian rebellion of 1857, which caused the end of the British East India Company's rule in India, and led to a century of direct rule of India by Britain.

Nicole and Stewert. Our friends from Ireland whom we met at our hostel. Great people and very fun to travel with.

The view towards the Taj Mahal. Probably similar to the view Shah Jahan had from his cell.

Our delicious South Indian Thali set meal.

The baby Taj Mahal. Another mausoleum built by the mughal empire.

 

Taj Mahal

The Taj Mahal of Agra is one of the Seven Wonders of the World. It's the history of Taj Mahal that adds a soul to its magnificence: a soul that is filled with love, loss, remorse, and love again. Because if it was not for love, the world would have been robbed of a fine example upon which people base their relationships. An example of how deeply a man loved his wife, that even after she remained but a memory, he made sure that this memory would never fade away. This man was the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, who was head-over-heels in love with Mumtaz Mahal, his dear wife. She was a Muslim Persian princess (her name Arjumand Banu Begum before marriage) and he was the son of the Mughal Emperor Jehangir and grandson of Akbar the Great. It was at the age of 14 that he met Mumtaz and fell in love with her. Five years later in the year 1612, they got married.

Mumtaz Mahal, an inseparable companion of Shah Jahan, died in 1631, while giving birth to their 14th child. It was in the memory of his beloved wife that Shah Jahan built a magnificent monument as a tribute to her, which we today know as the "Taj Mahal". The construction of Taj Mahal started in the year 1631. Masons, stonecutters, inlayers, carvers, painters, calligraphers, dome-builders and other artisans were requisitioned from the whole of the empire and also from Central Asia and Iran, and it took approximately 22 years to build what we see today. An epitome of love, it made use of the services of 22,000 laborers and 1,000 elephants. The monument was built entirely out of white marble, which was brought in from all over India and central Asia. After an expenditure of approximately 32 million rupees (approx US $68000), Taj Mahal was finally completed in the year 1653.

It was soon after the completion of Taj Mahal that Shah Jahan was deposed by his own son Aurangzeb and was put under house arrest at nearby Agra Fort. Shah Jahan, himself also, lies entombed in this mausoleum along with his wife. Moving further down the history, it was at the end of the 19th century that British Viceroy Lord Curzon ordered a sweeping restoration project, which was completed in 1908, as a measure to restore what was lost during the Indian rebellion of 1857: Taj being blemished by British soldiers and government officials who also deprived the monument of its immaculate beauty by chiseling out precious stones and lapis lazuli from its walls. Also, the British style lawns that we see today adding on to the beauty of Taj were remodeled around the same time. Despite prevailing controversies, past and present threats from Indo-Pak war and environmental pollution, this epitome of love continuous to shine and attract people from all over the world. - Tajmahal.org

 タージ・マハル

1632年着工、1653年竣工と言われる。
謀反を起こした臣下ハーン・ジャハーン討伐に付き従っていたムムターズ・マハルは、遠征先のブルハーンプルで^[1]産褥病のため1631年6月7日に死亡した。彼女は遺言のひとつに、後世に残る墓を所望した^[2]。彼女はブルハーンプルのザイナ・バードの庭園に葬られ、毎週金曜日には訪れるまだ39歳のシャー・ジャハーンの髯はすっかり白くなっていた^[1]。
霊廟の計画はブルハーンプル滞在時には着手され始めたと考えられる。1632年の初めにムムターズ・マハルの遺体は都アーグラに送られ、ダルール・ キラファト・アクバラバードの庭園に安置されたが、ハーン・ジャハーンはデカン討伐を続けた。これも6月には終えるとアーグラに舞い戻り、ムムターズ・マ ハルの一回忌追悼式典が催され、霊廟建設が開始された。基礎工事を経て1636年には白い霊廟がほぼ完成し、さらにこれを挟んでモスクと集会場、尖塔、そ して大楼門が建設された。大楼門北側には「神のご加護により、1057年竣工」という文字が刻まれている。イスラム暦1057年は西暦1648年であり建設開始から17年を経ているが、その後には付帯設備が5年間をかけて整備され、すべての工事は1653年に完了した。
名前の由来は不確定ながら、王妃ムムターズ・マハルのムムが消えターズがインド風発音のタージになったという。ムムターズ・マハルはペルシャ語で「宮殿の光」、「宮廷の選ばれし者」を意味する言葉であり、第4代皇帝ジャハーンギールから授けられた称号である。彼女の本名はアルジュマンド・バーヌー・ベーガム（ベーグ）という。タージ・マハルを言葉どおりに訳せば「王冠宮殿」もしくは「宮殿の王冠」という意味になる。
また、地元では親しみを込めてピーピー・カ・ロウザと呼ばれていた。ピーピーは親しみを込めた貴婦人への呼びかけ。カ・ロウザは「（その貴婦人）の廟園」を意味する。
1983年にユネスコの世界遺産（文化遺産）に登録され、2007年に新・世界七不思議に選出された。

This multi-purpose plant grows wild in India. This is along the national highway.

Fatehpur Sikri

According to contemporary historians, Akbar took a great interest in the building of Fatehpur Sikri and probably also dictated its architectural style. Seeking to revive the splendours of Persian court ceremonial made famous by his ancestor Timur, Akbar planned the complex on Persian principles. But the influences of his adopted land came through in the typically Indian embellishments. The easy availability of sandstone in the neighbouring areas of Fatehpur Sikri, also meant that all the buildings here were made of the red stone. The imperial Palace complex consists of a number of independent pavilions arranged in formal geometry on a piece of level ground, a pattern derived from Arab and central Asian tent encampments. In its entirety, the monuments at Fatehpur Sikri thus reflect the genius of Akbar in assimilating diverse regional architectural influences within a holistic style that was uniquely his own.
The Imperial complex was abandoned in 1585, shortly after its completion, due to paucity of water and its proximity with the Rajputana areas in the North-West, which were increasingly in turmoil. Thus the capital was shifted to Lahore so that Akbar could have a base in the less stable part of the empire, before moving back Agra in 1598, where he had begun his reign as he shifted his focus to Deccan.^[6] In fact, he never returned to the city except for a brief period in 1601.^[7][8] In later Mughal history it was occupied for a short while by Mughal emperor, Muhammad Shah (r. 1719 -1748), and his regent, Sayyid Hussain Ali Khan Barha, one of the Syed Brothers, was murdered here in 1720. Today much of the imperial complex which spread over nearly two mile long and one mile wide area is largely intact and resembles a ghost town. It is still surrounded by a five mile long wall built during its original construction, on three sides. 

The Mosque at Fetehpur Sikri

Our last meal together

 

On the way to Orcha

Orcha 

March 20th-23rd

 

Orcha is a small town full of amazing palaces, forts, and ruins. It is so scenic and has a lot of potential for eco-tourism and historical tourism. However it is one of the dirtiest places I've ever been in my life and this is where Polly got food poisoning. The lack of hygiene here was almost dwarfed by the persistent hassle of touts and perverted men hanging out at the sites. But if we forget the filth and only look at the river and the majestic monuments Orcha was a very nice place.

 

The Ancient Chatris, Indian pavillions, on the Betwa river

Orcha palace, one of our favorite palaces in India

This view was second to none

View towards Ram Raja temple and the Jahangir Mahal

Inside the ancient Jahangir Mahal

Orcha temple from the Jahangir Mahal

The meal that made Polly sick

Betwa river. This is also where everyone dedicates and washes their clothes. India is like the world used to be a thousand years ago. Yet it is one of the world leaders in technology. There is quite a gap between the different classes here and the government needs to spend more on public health.

Beautiful Indian Sari, the traditional dress of India, worn by some friendly women strolling near the river.

After hiking for three kilometers up stream, through the national park, we found a serine spot to relax and escape the loud and dirty place which is India.

Seeing as we were up stream and away from people I took a little dip.

Good night Orcha

Varanasi and Sarnath

 

March 24th-27th

 We came to Varanasi after the tourist season. A time when touts are at their most viscous. We didn't encounter too many touts and the people were very friendly. The Ganges was very peaceful and holy. The streets were filled with interesting people selling interesting things. The energy was good and the place felt very.. holy. However, like most places in India, it was incredibly filthy. I know I sound like a prissy developed world elite trying to call people out on what I deem to be "civilized behavior," holding a high brow to everything around me BUT. This is a public health issue beyond anything I could have ever imagined. This should be talked about openly as constructive criticism and I think Indians need to be reminded of the fact that people view their beautiful country as dirty. I mean no disrespect, no country and culture is perfect. Again this is rational constructive criticism on a sad fact of life in India.

Varanasi lies on the banks of the Ganges river (Ganga) in Uttar Pradesh, 320 kilometres (200 mi) southeast of the state capital, Lucknow. It is the holiest of the seven sacred cities (Sapta Puri) in Hinduism and Jainism, and played an important role in the development of Buddhism. Some Hindus believe that death at Varanasi brings salvation. It is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Varanasi is also known as the favorite city of the Hindu deity Lord Shiva as it has been mentioned in the Rigveda that this city at older times was known as Kashi or "Shiv ki Nagri".
Many of its temples were plundered and destroyed by Mohammad Ghauri in the 12th century. The temples and religious institutions in the city now are dated to the 18th century.
The Kashi Naresh (Maharaja of Kashi) is the chief cultural patron of Varanasi, and an essential part of all religious celebrations. The culture of Varanasi is closely associated with the Ganges. The city has been a cultural center of North India for several thousand years, and has a history that is older than most of the major world religions. The Benares Gharana form of Hindustani classical music was developed in Varanasi, and many prominent Indian philosophers, poets, writers, and musicians live or have lived in Varanasi. Gautama Buddha gave his first sermon at Sarnath located near Varanasi.
Varanasi is the spiritual capital of India. Scholarly books have been written in the city, including the Ramcharitmanas of Tulsidas. Today there is a temple of his namesake in the city, the Tulsi Manas Mandir. One of the largest residential universities of Asia the Banaras Hindu University is located here. Varanasi is often referred to as "the city of temples", "the holy city of India", "the religious capital of India", "the city of shiva", and "the city of learning".

 

 ワーラーナシー

歴史

インドの叙事詩『マハーバーラタ』にもその存在は記されている。前6世紀から5世紀頃、この地にあったカーシー国の首都として栄えた。その後、コーサラ国、マガダ国などに支配された。
前4世紀、インド初の統一王朝となるマウリヤ朝が成立するとその支配下におかれ、以後も歴代王朝に支配された。ラージプート時代の混乱が続く中、ワーラーナシーはイスラーム勢力に征服されることになった。まず12世紀末、アフガニスタンのゴール朝に征服された。その後のデリー・スルターン朝時代においても、トゥグルク朝やローディー朝による破壊を受けた。
16世紀に成立したムガル帝国のもとでは、3代皇帝アクバルが宗教寛容策を採ったことで知られるように、イスラーム教徒、ヒンドゥー教徒の共存が図られたため、ベナレスの再建が進んだ。
だが、17世紀に厳格なスンナ派である6代皇帝アウラングゼーブが即位すると、再び聖像崇拝禁止の方針がとられ、街の多くの宗教施設が破壊された。そのため、現存している建物の多くは、18世紀以降に建てられたものである。
1725年にムガル皇帝に徴税権を認められたマナサ・ラーム（ヒンドゥー教徒）のもとで、徐々に街の復興が進んでいき、息子のバルワーン・シングはワーラーナシーの代には復興した。しかし、18世紀後半よりイギリス東インド会社の進出が本格化し、藩王国としてイギリスの統治下におかれた。ベナレスという呼称は、このイギリス統治時代のものである。

 

The holy Ganges river. It functions as the burial grounds and place of morning pujas and rituals for hindus. In true Indian style it also serves as the cities toilet and garbage bin. The fact that many people bath in it's waters and don't die of dysentery is beyond me.

Blue Lasi, one of the finest lasi's in India but falling far short of the lasi's we were to sample in Nepal.

Ghandi

Sarnath

The deer park in Sarnath is where Gautama Buddha first taught the Dharma, and where the Buddhist Sangha came into existence through the enlightenment of Kondanna. Sarnath is located 13 kilometres north-east of Varanasi near the confluence of the Ganges and the Gomati rivers, in Uttar Pradesh, India. Singhpur, a village approximately one km away from the site, was the birthplace of Shreyansanath, the eleventh Tirthankara of Jainism, and a temple dedicated to him, is an important pilgrimage site.

サルナートは、インドのウッタル・プラデーシュ州にある地名。ワーラーナシー（ベナレス）の北方約10kmに位置する。釈迦が悟りを開いた後、初めて説法を説いた地とされる。初転法輪の地。仏教の四大聖地のひとつ。鹿が多くいたことから鹿野苑（ろくやおん）とも表される。
現在はインド政府によって整理され遺跡公園になっている。またこの周辺からは「サールナート仏」と呼ばれる仏像が多数出土し、最高傑作とも評される「初転法輪像」がサールナート考古博物館に収蔵されている。

 

Thai temple in Sarnath

Tibetan temple, the only place we were able to find peace and meditate in.

The Dhamek Stupa, built in 500 CE to mark the spot where Gauttama Buddha taught his first sermon

Good by India, Namaste Nepal!!

Nepal

Kathmandu 

March 27th-28th, 

April 1st-2nd 

  Nepal was our favorite place to visit. We flew into Kathmandu in the afternoon of March 27th. We first noticed the beautiful mountains surrounding the Kathmandu valley. The valley with it's sub tropical weather is home to many beautiful plants and animals. The temples are amazing and show more of a Tibeten/ Chinese influence than a Hindu one. The people are a mix of many peoples and often have features which to describe in simple terms resemble a mix of Tibetan and Indian. In short the Nepali people are beautiful.

Kathmandu history is complex and will take too much time to write about.

歴史

古代より、現在のネワール族の祖先であろうと思われる非インド・アーリヤ系先住民がこの地で生活をしてきていたが、4世紀の後半にはインド・アーリア系のリッチャヴィ王朝がカトマンズ盆地を征服しネパール（ネーパーラ）王国を興した。
9世紀、リッチャビ王朝の衰退以降はデーヴァ王族（リッチャビ王族とは別）がカトマンズ盆地を治めた。 その後13世紀初頭ころから、それまでのデーヴァ王族に代わりマッラ王族が台頭しはじめ、15世紀にはヤクシャ・マッラ王の死後、長男ラーヤ・マッラ王が統治するバクタプルから二男のラトナ・マッラが独立し、カトマンズ・マッラ王朝を開く。17世紀にはカトマンズ・マッラ王朝から独立したシッディナラシンハ・マッラがパタン・マッラ王朝をひらいた。こうして中世後期にはカトマンズ近辺にマッラ王朝の3つの王国（カトマンズ、パタン、バクタプル）がこの地を治めていた。
1768年、ゴルカ王のプリティビナラヤン・シャハがこの地を三王国を倒し、カトマンズを首都として定めた（シャハ王朝）。1769年にネパールを統一するまでは、「ネパール」というと「カトマンズ」を指していた。

 

Kathmandu valley

The Boudhanath, is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal, along with Swayambhu. Boudhanath is located about 11 km (7 mi) from the center and northeastern outskirts of Kathmandu, the stupa's massive mandala makes it one of the largest spherical stupas in Nepal. Boudhanath became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979. There is a large Tibetan settle surrounding the stupa and every day people walk around the stupa, pray and meditate. The surrounding village is full of restaurants and Tibetan souvenir shops.

People doing prostrations, showing their devotion to the Buddhist law

Woman turning the Mandela prayer wheels

Prayer candles

Mandela painting

Steamed Tibetan momos!! These became our favorite food in Nepal. They have vegetables and herbs and occasionally meat inside.

Mist over Kathmandu

Swayambhu

 

Swayambhu is a Buddhist stupa atop a hillock at the northwestern part of the city. This is among the oldest religious sites in Nepal. Although the site is considered Buddhist, it is revered by both Buddhists and Hindus. The stupa consists of a dome at the base; above the dome, there is a cubic structure with the eyes of Buddha looking in all four directions. There are pentagonal Toran above each of the four sides, with statues engraved on them. Behind and above the torana there are thirteen tiers. Above all the tiers, there is a small space above which lies a gajur.

Kopan Monastery

A Tibetan Buddhist monastery in the hills around Kathmandu. We spent our last day here meditating.

Durbar Square

The literal meaning of Durbar Square is a "place of palaces". The Durbar Square of Kathmandu is located in the old city and has heritage buildings representing four kingdoms (Kantipur, Lalitpur, Bhaktapur, Kirtipur); the earliest is the Licchavi dynasty. The complex has 50 temples and is distributed in two quadrangles of the Durbar Square.

The main temple, closed to foreigners, is the primary temple of the Nepali Royal family

 

 

 Pokhara 

March 28th-30th

 We spent a few days in the beautiful mountain town of Pokhara. Pokhara is the gateway to the Anapurna range, known for it's challenging peaks. The town, like kathmandu, is full of shops selling outdoor gear. The town is warmer than Kathmandu and the Himalayan Anapurna mountains are within view.  

ポカラ（ネパール語पोखरा、英語Pokhara）は、ネパール・ガンダキ県およびカスキ郡の首都。カトマンズから西に約200kmの位置にある。
人口は約19万人（2005年現在）で、ネパール第2の都市である。

 

Road to Pokhara

Fried momos

Nepali daal curry

The restaurant at our beautiful guesthouse

The menu. Full of healthy local foods

A nice boat ride on Phewa lake

The peaceful waters of Phewa lake

Hindu temple on an island in the middle of Phewa lake

Evening swim in the waters of the Himalayas

The Anapurna range, part of the grand Himalayas

Bhaktapur and Nagarkot

 

Bhaktapur has the best preserved Palace courtyards and old city center in Nepal, and is listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO for its rich culture, temples, and wood, metal and stone artwork. The best part about it are the streets and just walking around is a wonderful experience.  The town is famous for special type of curd called "Ju Ju dhau". It is experienced by the curd makers that the taste of curd prepared in this location cannot be found elsewhere all over Nepal. The curd is the best yogurt we've ever had in our lives!

Nagarkot is a village close by and allows for some of the best views of the Himalayas including Mt. Everest. We were lucky with the weather and got a perfect view of Everest. Also there were a group of Tibetans who did a meditation and chanting during the sunrise. To meditate with Tibetans while the sun rises over the Himalayas was one of the most surreal experiences of my life.


バクタプル（ネパール語：भक्तपुर bhaktapur）はネパールの市。バドガオン（ネパール語：भादगाउँ bhādgāũ） またはクオパ（ネパール・バサ語:ख्वप Khvapa）はカトマンズから東に12キロ、カトマンズ盆地の東端にある古代ネワール人の都市である。バクタプル郡の郡庁所在地で、人口は約7万8000人である。
この町の男の住民は、伝統的にバドガウンレ・トピといわれる、黒くやや硬めの特別なタイプの帽子を着用しており、この帽子はネパールの公務員の正装としても採用されている。この町は｢ジュジュ・ダウ｣つまり「王のヨーグルト」と呼ばれるヨーグルトでも有名である。

 

Our guesthouse. The owner was amazingly kind and proud of his food and establishment. His whole entire family live in the area and they are all very friendly. He made us feel at home.

We will miss beautiful Nepal. Nepal is one of those places which enchants you and makes you want to go back again.